Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Tippy Tuesday

Boy howdy. September hasn't been kind to us. Of course with all the stuff going on with mom and our local hospital ardently trying to kill her (not kidding), I'm sick for the second time this month. Hey, September, knock it off! Anyway, my fall table runner is back from the quilter and ready to be bound. I have that leopard print quilt yet to bind, and I'm slowly but steadily piecing all the 312 triangles together for my pumpkin quilt (pictures to follow) and my log cabin/star quilt is looking pretty fancy (also pictures to follow). So even being sick there's no rest for the stitchy.

On to the Tips! Oh, and by the way, if you send in your own tip to thecottonpatch@msn.com and it gets posted in the Tips section in the weekly newsletter, you get a prize! Even if you think everyone knows it, submit it anyway - free stuff is a wonderful thing! Unfortunately this offer applies to local ladies only - we don't do prizes by mail, but we still welcome your tips!

* The cardboard trays that soda packs come in are great for holding projects, because despite their size, they take up very little room when stacked up, and they stack very nicely. Label them as you see fit and there you have it - an inexpensive storage method, plus you're reusing something you might otherwise just throw away/recycle!

* Put an empty tissue box next to your machine to toss threads, paper piecing bits, fusible applique waste and fabric snippings into. It's reusable and its contents are easier to throw away.

* If you're having a hard time gripping the needle as you're hand stitching, try using a finger cot on the fingers you're using to pull the needle through. That little bit of extra grip works wonders. Plus, for this purpose they aren't only good for one use and a $2 pack of finger cots will last you a long, long time.

* If your cutting matting is looking pretty haggard with years of cutting grooves on it, fliip it over and use the underside. If your mat is that translucent plastic, then the lines are still visible and you can trace them in permanent marker on the backside, of course being very careful to trace accurately. If your mat isn't the transluscent plastic, well, measure out lines the old fashioned way, or just use your ruler to get your measurements.

* If you're having a hard time maintaining a good 1/4" as you sew, use a piece of blue painter's tape and tape it to your machine below your pressure foot, in line with the 1/4" marker on the feed dog plate. This will enable you to see that 1/4" farther down and  give you a larger guideline to go by.

* This one is one of my tried and trues, and I'm not sure if I've posted it before but what the hey, here it is (again): Those gallon sized ziplock bags (with the movable sipper thing on top) are a godsend. I have a tendency to leave and lose blocks and this keeps them all contained and protects the raw edges from ravelling and anything from stretching or wrinkling. The bags are reusable project to project and a box will last a long time.

* Before each project where you need to be using a particular bobbin thread, fill several bobbins with that color to save you time later. When you'r ein a groove and run out of bobbin thread, it's a groove crusher to spend the additional time away from working to wind another bobbin.

* Need a circle template? Use a sample CD that AOL and other companies send around in junk mail. They're durable and just about the perfect size for most projects.

* For posterity, sew your quilt label onto your backing before quilting your quilt. It makes it more stable and more difficult to remove later on. That way everyone in years to come knows who made the quilt!

* Use muslin or fusible interfacing to stabilize t-shirt blocks before you sew them - it'll prevent the knit from stretching funny when compared to the flannel or cotton you use for sashing.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Top 5 Quilting Notions and Tools I Can't Live Without

1. Omnigrid 4" Needlecraft Scissors

I LOVE these scissors. Seriously. I carry them with me always (well, except on planes) because they are useful for so much. While I don't care for their rulers, one of the great things about Omnigrid Scissors is that they stay sharp for a very long time and these little guys are no exception; we use Omnigrid scissors at the shop and after 7 years they have not dulled. These are great for cutting out applique, because the tip is so sharp it cleanly gets into any of the teeny corners your applique may have. They're perfect for keeping by your machine for snipping threads, because they stay out of the way. But most of all, these have replaced my seam ripper and my seam snip scissors. The tip of these scissors is so small and SO sharp it gets in under the stitches of a seam easier than a plain ol' seam ripper, in my opinion. We do carry these at The Cotton Patch, so if you want to give 'em a try, come on in!

2. Atlas Gardening Gloves

Here's a secret - the best quilting gloves I have ever had were a pair of my Mom's gardening gloves. She turned me on to this, too! These are Atlas brand gardening gloves, and the palm surface of the glove is rubberized from the tips of your fingers to the heel of your hand. This gives you a greater surface gripping area while you're quilting your quilt, therefore you have less slippage and greater control than you do with quilting gloves that have finger grips only. The back of them are cloth so they breath very nicely - no sweaty hands! Plus, you can get them very inexpensively (less than $5 at Fred Meyer here in Oregon, comparably priced at places like Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, etc) and they last for a long time. They seriously facilitate the quilting process on a domestic machine.

3. Bamboo Stiletto

We have these at the shop. They're exactly what they sound like. It's a stiletto. It's made of bamboo. What I like so much about it is that it's double ended; there is a thicker side for more heavy duty tasks, and a thinner sharper side for normal stiletto duties. I like these better than the metal ones, because the metal ones have a tendency to dull over time and separate from their handles. Bamboo stilettos come in one whole piece, it's durable, keeps its point and it's a very sustainable and renewable resource. They are inexpensive so you get a lot of bang for your buck, because they are great for more than just guiding fabric through your feed dogs. I use it for applique, scrapbooking, working with polymer clay...it's great.

4. Emery Board

Yes. A regular, plain ol' emergy board. Dollar Store, Rite Aid, Target...they can be found everywhere, eveb gas station quickie marts. For one, I break nails all the flippin' time, even quilting, so I need 'em. But what I really use them for most is after ripping out a seam, it gets those stray threads out better than anything else I have tried. There is no way I'm going to pick those little things out by hand, so running an emery board over those threads (gently!) works like a dream and a $2 pack will literally last you years because the surface won't wear down quickly on snipped threads.

5. Applique Pressing Sheet

We have these at the shop. If you do fusible applique, this thing comes in handy like you wouldn't believe. You can build your appliques up and fuse them together before positioning them on your background. It helps ensure that you get your image put together correctly before it's fused to tha background and it's too late to fix it. It's transluscent so that helps you see your fabrics and lines as needed. It's also great for fusing Angelina Fibers, using to catch hot glue, or using any glue on because it'll peel or wash right off, no problems. They are reasonably priced and last for ages.

Quilts for a Cause

Okay, I'll admit, this perhaps isn't for all senses of humor. But I think this is a good cause and hilarious medium for fundraising.

The short and sweet story is that Megan Smith's brother has brain cancer, and has since early 2010. As anyone can imagine, or as anyone who has had cancer or a relative with cancer, it is a long treatment process that costs big, big money. Being the funny lady and caring sister she is, she pulled a Calendar Girls move (only with men)  and designed a 2012 calendar to help raise money for her brother's treatment with her readers (and reader's husbands) as models.

Men. Quilts. Burritos?! Read her story and see the calendar! It's great for a giggle and it's for a great cause.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Thursday, It's Technical: Quilt Batting Basics

Batting (or padding/wadding as it is also known in other regions of the world) is one of those utilitarian items that just about all quilts have but seldom is any importance placed on it to - after all, it's just the "fluffy stuff" that makes your quilt poufy and warm, and no one sees it once the quilt is finished, so why pay it much mind? Okay, so you're half right. Batting is nowhere near as important as your fabric choice, or how you choose to quilt your quilt. But batting does dictate to a certain degree how your quilting turns out, and it determines the look your quilt will have three-dimensionally. Not all battings are created equal for your purpose! This time, I'm going to discuss from the group up what batting is exactly, what it's made of, the types and what kind of batting is (in general, there is always variation in opinion about it) better suited for which kind of project.

Batting Terms
Batting is the middle, fibrous layer of your quilt that no one sees. It can vary in fiber content and in weight, but it is what gives your quilt its warmth and thickness.
Batt is another word you'll hear tossed around, more often colloquially than not. It is just a synonym for batting.
Bonded Battings are held together by a glue-like material that has been fused to the fibers to keep everything together.
Needle Punched Battings are held together by the scrim, and are felted toegther using hundreds of tiny needles. There is no glue-like bonding agent.
Scrim is a very loosely woven netting used in needle punched battings. It can either be synthetic or natural in composition, and helps to keep the batting more stable and durable than a fusing agent alone.
Natural Batting is comprised of one or more natural fibers like cotton, wool, bamboo, or silk
Synthetic Batting is made from "unnatural" (meaning, not occuring in nature) fibers. Polyester and Poly-Blends are the most common in this category
Drape describes the feel and how your quilt will lay after it is finished. Your batting choice and how much quilting you decide to do determines whether your quilt has a stiff or soft drape. Thicker batting and more quilting equates a stiffer drape; thinner batting and less quilting constitues and softer drape.
Loft is how thick or poufy your batting is. High loft is thicker, low loft is thinner. Many battings come in various loft choices, but some only have one loft style.
Bearding is the batting fibers coming through the front and back of your quilt, and is definitely not a good thing. It occurs when a batting is poorly constructed and there isn't much you can do about it once it happens other than deal with it or rip our your quilting and replace the batting with something of a better quality.


Batting Types and Their Attributes
Cotton
Cotton is used most commonly out of the natural fibers. It is generally a low loft batting that is usually needle punched, but bonded can be found as well. White it is low loft, it is a pretty dense batting so at a low loft you'll stay warmer than you'd expect. It breathes well, meaning you'll stay warm but you won't overheat, and it does wick away moisture. That being said, cotton can mildew and retain smells if not taken care of properly. It shrinks on the initial wash, so after washing it will give quilts a more aged and used look (it wringles around the quilting stitch). As it is used though, it gets softer and softer, so it will drape very nicely over the bed and therefore over you. It can handle heavy quilting, so it is usually the batting of choice for show quilts, because it'll show off that wonderful, intricate quilting. With cotton, there is the option to find batting made with cotton free of pesticides and petroleum based fertilizers ("organic"). If the whole "organic" craze is important to you, then cotton is a good choice because you have that option. In terms of cost, it is middle of the road - not the spendiest but not the most inexpensive either.

Cotton-Poly
Cotton-Poly is a blend of Cotton and Polyester, so it isn't fully natural or synthetic and has the benefits of both; typically it is ~80% Cotton to ~20% Polyester.  It is a higher loft than cotton, but a lower loft than Polyester. It is less prone to shrinkage like Polyester, but it is more breathable like cotton. It too can handle quite a bit of quilting, but not as well as cotton does. It has the warmth of Polyester without the weight of cotton, and it drapes very nicely. Generally speaking, it is roughly the same cost as 100% cotton batting.

Polyester
Polyester is the most popular and widely available synthetic batting on the market. It generally is a high loft batt, but several different lofts are available. It quilts nicely, especially for hand quilting, but it can't handle heavy machine quilting like natural fibers can.  It's not a heavy batting, so that's a plus, but on the flip side of that coin, Polyester batts are subject to bearding because they aren't fused or needle punched as thoroughly. Unlike cotton, it is fully machine washable and dryer safe, won't retain mildewy smells and since it's synthetic it'll go back into shape after washing (no wrinkling around the quilting stitches). Polyester is definitely the way to go if you suffer from any kind of fiber allergies, because it is hypoallergenic by nature. However, it is a petroleum based material, so it isn't a renewable resource and it's not as environmentally friendly as other battings, if that is a concern of yours, then Polyester batting might not be for you. Of all the battings, Polyester is the least expensive option.

Wool
I have to say, wool is my batting of choice. It is generally a mid-loft, though thin wool batts are easily available. It natually regulates body temperature because it breathes and insulates at the same time, ensuring that you're not too hot or too cold. A neat thing about wool is that it can absorb 1/3 of its weight in water without feeling damp, so it'll still keep you warm even if it gets wet. Plus, wool quilts by both hand or machine very smoothly and really accentuates the stitches well. The downside to wool is that is not dryer safe because it can felt and get ruined by the heat of the dryer - air dry is the way to go. Moths also love wool batted quilts, just like they do wool sweaters, so it is important to keep an eye out for moth damage if you are storing the quilt. On the other hand, wool is naturally flame resistant so it is a good option for baby and children's quilts. However, if you're a fiber allergy sufferer, wool is not the fiber for you as it is the most common fiber that people are allergic to (it's the naturally occuring oil in the wool that is generally the culprit) and it has a tendency to beard if it's a lower quality wool batt. It is on the upper end of cost of the battings - less expensive than silk but more spendy than cotton or Polyester.

Alpaca
Alpaca batting is a type of wool batting. It is lightweight and very warm and breathable like wool, but it has a reduced allergy risk because it isn't oily the way sheep's wool is. It is usally blended with other natural fibers, and it is a needle-punched style batting. It does have the pitfall of felting and bunching in the dryer, and it is also susceptible to moth damage. It is the most expensive of the battings available simply because it is a specialty batting.

Bamboo
Bamboo is a truly wonderful, low loft batting. Bamboo is a fast growing plant, so it is a sustainable resource. It isn't as warm as wool, but it breathes like cotton and is perfect for summer quilts and throws. It is naturally hypoallergenic and antibacterial, so it's a good bet if you're an allergy sufferer. It doesn't beard because it a pretty flat, smooth batting. It is needle punched, so it doesn't have any bonding agents, but it makes it harder to hand quilt because it's fairly dense for being thinner. Bamboo tends to be on the expensive side of the spectrum, more comparable to wool, and it is more difficult to find than cotton is.

Silk
Silk batting is used less for quilts and more for quilted garments. It drapes the best out of all the battings, and it is incredibly warm for its thinness. It doesn't cling well to fabric, so machine quilting can be tricky as the fabric may slide over it.

Choosing the "Right" Batting for Your Quilt
The truth is there is no "right" choice, other than buying quality batting that won't clump or beard. Otherwise, it's all about the effect you want, the feel you want and what you enjoy working with. for myself, I stick with wool, cotton and bamboo....cotton and bamboo for tablerunners, wool for wall hangings and throws, and cotton for bedquilts. But here are a few guidelines to help you if you don't all ready have a batting in mind:

Hand Quilting - Wool, Polyester quilt the smoothest
Machine Quilting - Cotton, Wool, Alpaca, Cotton-Poly, Bamboo and Silk show off machine quilting well.

What size is your quilt? Low loft battings are perfect for tablerunners. Higherloft battings are great for wallhangings, because the thicker the batting, the straighter the piece will hang.

When will you use your quilt? Lower loft and breathable battings are best for summertime or warm climates - think cotton, bamboo, cotton-poly batts. Higher loft, less breathable battings are more suitable for cold weather quilts or cooler climates - think Polyester, wool or alpaca.

* Consider your budget and cost of batting. Plan to spend between $20-$40 on batting.

* Always follow the directions on your package of batting. It will let you know whether it can be used straight out of the package, how heavy or loose the quilting can be, the washing instructions and the fiber content.

Trial and error plays a big role in finding the right batting for you. I hope these tips and guidelines help you on your search!

Additional Information and Sources
Day Style Designs
Quilt University
Christine Mann's Batting Tips
As always, Google searches are great things!

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Tippy Tuesday, only on Wednesday

Well, life has been crazy lately (and not in a fun "Barrel of Monkeys" way). Too much time has been spent in hospitals and at doctors appointments, and I've been triple-timing it at work so my time for anything more than work and sleep has been extremely limited. But we did finally get some good news - Mom doesn't have a heart problem. Her heart attack and related issues were not caused by a faulty ticker, but because of a thyroid disorder called Graves Disease. Don't worry, it's named after the doctor who discovered it in the 1920s, not after where you end up if you have it. Luckily it is easily treated and hopefully life will return back to normal for all of us soon. Needless to say, everyone in the family and at the shop are so very relieved it isn't anything more serious.

So, now to the tips. Since I haven't had a whole lot of time, I haven't gathered that many so I'm gathering while I'm writing. I haven't been able to test any of these out so they mayt or may not work for you but hey, it never hurts to give it a go on scrap or test fabrics/notions. Here we go!:

* Flannel works as a good batting subsitute if the quilt you're making is thick enough on its own (a Minkee quilt, for example) or if you want to keep your quilt really lightweight. Back in the day flannel was often used as "batting" because batting of a good quality wasn't always available where flannel was easier to obtain.

* Dishwasher utensil baskets make a great notion storage device - they are narrow and compact so they stay out of the way on your table, and they are easily hung up on the wall to be out of the way entirely. So if you're getting rid of a dishwasher, save that basket! Or, you can purchase one relatively inexpensively.

* If you're binding a quilt, and it's getting too warm to do while it's draped over you, move your ironing board to where you're seated and lower it to just above your lap. Drape the quilt over it and continue binding. The ironing board prevents the quilt from overheating you, and there is a nice draft between the quilt, board and you.

* While you're working on a project requiring several bobbins, stick a Q-Tip in the spool of thread, and then the bobbin through the Q-Tip. If you run out of thread, you will quickly know whch thread you used for that bobbin in case you forget.

* Keep inexpensive makeup brushes (eyeshadow and eyeliner brushes work best) as well as the fuzzy dental picks in your sewing kit. They are great for cleaning your machine when needed, and get into the nooks and crannies better than the brush your machine came with.

* If you have a cat or small dog, fabric scraps (apparently) make good chew toys. Tie a knot in it and let 'em at it. My chihuahuas can hardly wait until I start having scraps falling. I give them the big ones I know I won't use later, with the knot tied in it and believe it or not it gives them literally hours of entertainment gnawing on that thing. Sometimes they'll steal away the smaller ones and chew it to bits after it falls from my cutting board and I don't always catch it until it's been in their slobbery little mouths for a bit. They just shred them up, so it's not really a choking hazard, but it could be - stick with larger pieces.

* Clean your blades, both rotary and scissors, with rubbing alcohol to keep them gunk free and cutting smoothly.

* If you are thrying to thread a clear monofilament through a needle and not having much luck, there are two things you can do: first, thread it against a dark fabric since that makes the thread easier to see. or color the very tip of the thread with permanent marker so you can see it to thread it and then snip it off.

* Making cloth napkins and coasters are a great way to burn through your scraps/stash and they make nice gifts for people.

* Speaking of cloth napkins, if you have a theme decor in your dining room, buy cloth napkins that complement your color scheme or dishes and use them in a table runner. While the fabric quality may not be the same as quilting fabric, it's an inexpensive way to tie your room together. Plus, it's not a piece to be washed regularly so using the napkins is just fine. A heavier weight napkin tends to work a little better than the lightweight cotton ones.

* The edge of the selvedge tells you more than just the line and manufacturer. Those colored dots tell you how many different dye screens were used to make that whole fabric. As such, those are the individual colors that will match and blend nicely with that piece of fabric. So if you're stuck on the color choices with your go-withs, that selvedge is a great place to start looking!

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Singing the Quilt Binding Blues

Nope, I haven't dropped off the face of the planet again. Last night we were back in the ER with Mom and I haven't been able to get to any of my blogging stuff. As I type I'm lounging on the not so comfy hospital room couch binding a quilt and keeping a sharp eye on the nurse giving Mom some heartrate control meds. I got my eyes on you, doc!

I hope everyone is having a low key week/day!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Fall Tablerunner

My fall allergies dang near have me down for the count, but at least this fall tablerunner won't make me sneeze...unlike the changing season...


This little beauty goes off to the quilter tomorrow and then up as a sample at the shop. Now it's time for a heavy dose of Nightime Benadryl and a good long sleep.