Batting, and Why Many Independent Shops Don't Sell It.

A few days ago, a customer was quite upset with me when I told her that typically, our quilt shop doesn't sell batting.  Visibly upset, she spat "What kind of quilt store doesn't sell batting?!  ALL good quilt stores carry batting!"  This is not the first time lately that a customer has left upset because we don't routinely stock batting.

We have been in business for four years, and we learned quickly that batting is not really an option for us in our area.  We don't carry it often, and when we do, it is a single size run (crib, twin, queen and king) of packaged batting.  Currently, all we have is a queen sized roll of black batting, and a bolt of fusible fleece.  After discussing this with the owner (also, my mother), we both thought it wise to address the batting issue on our Facebook, and on my blog.  This isn't meant to scold or to complain, rather, it is to help give insight as to why many quilt shops lack one very basic item on their shevles. 

So, why doesn't our shop, and many other independent quilt shops not stock batting in quantity, or by the yard?

First of all, there is a huge storage issue - full bolts of batting are huge and most local shops can't house them.

But there is one very, very big reason.  Most shops, ours included, cannot compete with this:

That's right.  Your local quilt store is getting out competed on batting by JoAnn's.  Or Hancock's.  Or whatever your big box fabric store is in your area. 

Here's the deal.  JoAnn's has a HUGE overhead.  With hundreds of locations around the country making thousands of dollars every single day, they can afford to discount their products in this way.  It brings people in to buy yardage in quantities they couldn't before, and on top of that, to buy higher priced items than they normally would, with the knowledge that the cost would be cut by 40%. 

Let's apply this to batting.  A kind sized package of batting runs anywhere for $40-$70 dollars, depending on the material (cotton vs. polyester vs. wool vs. soy, etc).  Now, with a 40% off coupon, that $40-$70 dollar pack of batting is now $24-$42.  That's quite the savings!

So, let's look at a local quilt shop, that has one location.  Their overhead is vastly different than that of JoAnn's.  They can't afford to chop the price of their merchandise that way, and maintain any kind of quality in their products at the same time.  They have to sell that batting for the suggested retail price of $40-$70.  People balk at the expense, and comment that they can get it more inexpensively at JoAnn's with their 40% coupon, or during whatever sale promotion that applies. 

We simply cannot compete with the sale pricing they offer, not to mention the word of mouth that our product is available more cheaply at JoAnn's with a coupon.  For the local quilt shop, their regularly priced batting sits and collects dust.  It becomes unsellable, all because of the big box store having the ability to discount the price.  We simply cannot compete with this, and many, many other local quilt shops are the same way.  If there is a JoAnn's or Hancock's nearby, expect their batting selection to be limited, if any at all.

As a matter of fact, I made a pit stop at JoAnn's on Saturday (the 24th) to check out their fall decor, and this is what I saw while walking in:

A batting promotion.  $26.99 for large packs of Warm and Natural, right outside the automatic doors. 

40% off cotton batting by the yard and by the pack, and 50% off polyester batting by the yard or by the pack, with a few bolts gone, and many packages missing.  As I walked past the cutting counter, a lady was getting several yards of  cotton batting cut.   

Unfortunately, this is a the nature of the beast when independent stores and bog box stores go head to head.  On some items, the discounted price point is so attractive that people make the financially logical choice and go for big box. 

Please understand that your local shops would LOVE to stock batting, but when there is a 40% discount versus suggested retail price, on this item 99% of people opt for the savings, not the local shop price, so batting isn't a sellable item for most local shops.

Thursday, It's Technical: Quilt Batting Basics

Batting (or padding/wadding as it is also known in other regions of the world) is one of those utilitarian items that just about all quilts have but seldom is any importance placed on it to - after all, it's just the "fluffy stuff" that makes your quilt poufy and warm, and no one sees it once the quilt is finished, so why pay it much mind? Okay, so you're half right. Batting is nowhere near as important as your fabric choice, or how you choose to quilt your quilt. But batting does dictate to a certain degree how your quilting turns out, and it determines the look your quilt will have three-dimensionally. Not all battings are created equal for your purpose! This time, I'm going to discuss from the group up what batting is exactly, what it's made of, the types and what kind of batting is (in general, there is always variation in opinion about it) better suited for which kind of project.

Batting Terms
Batting is the middle, fibrous layer of your quilt that no one sees. It can vary in fiber content and in weight, but it is what gives your quilt its warmth and thickness.
Batt is another word you'll hear tossed around, more often colloquially than not. It is just a synonym for batting.
Bonded Battings are held together by a glue-like material that has been fused to the fibers to keep everything together.
Needle Punched Battings are held together by the scrim, and are felted toegther using hundreds of tiny needles. There is no glue-like bonding agent.
Scrim is a very loosely woven netting used in needle punched battings. It can either be synthetic or natural in composition, and helps to keep the batting more stable and durable than a fusing agent alone.
Natural Batting is comprised of one or more natural fibers like cotton, wool, bamboo, or silk
Synthetic Batting is made from "unnatural" (meaning, not occuring in nature) fibers. Polyester and Poly-Blends are the most common in this category
Drape describes the feel and how your quilt will lay after it is finished. Your batting choice and how much quilting you decide to do determines whether your quilt has a stiff or soft drape. Thicker batting and more quilting equates a stiffer drape; thinner batting and less quilting constitues and softer drape.
Loft is how thick or poufy your batting is. High loft is thicker, low loft is thinner. Many battings come in various loft choices, but some only have one loft style.
Bearding is the batting fibers coming through the front and back of your quilt, and is definitely not a good thing. It occurs when a batting is poorly constructed and there isn't much you can do about it once it happens other than deal with it or rip our your quilting and replace the batting with something of a better quality.


Batting Types and Their Attributes
Cotton
Cotton is used most commonly out of the natural fibers. It is generally a low loft batting that is usually needle punched, but bonded can be found as well. White it is low loft, it is a pretty dense batting so at a low loft you'll stay warmer than you'd expect. It breathes well, meaning you'll stay warm but you won't overheat, and it does wick away moisture. That being said, cotton can mildew and retain smells if not taken care of properly. It shrinks on the initial wash, so after washing it will give quilts a more aged and used look (it wringles around the quilting stitch). As it is used though, it gets softer and softer, so it will drape very nicely over the bed and therefore over you. It can handle heavy quilting, so it is usually the batting of choice for show quilts, because it'll show off that wonderful, intricate quilting. With cotton, there is the option to find batting made with cotton free of pesticides and petroleum based fertilizers ("organic"). If the whole "organic" craze is important to you, then cotton is a good choice because you have that option. In terms of cost, it is middle of the road - not the spendiest but not the most inexpensive either.

Cotton-Poly
Cotton-Poly is a blend of Cotton and Polyester, so it isn't fully natural or synthetic and has the benefits of both; typically it is ~80% Cotton to ~20% Polyester.  It is a higher loft than cotton, but a lower loft than Polyester. It is less prone to shrinkage like Polyester, but it is more breathable like cotton. It too can handle quite a bit of quilting, but not as well as cotton does. It has the warmth of Polyester without the weight of cotton, and it drapes very nicely. Generally speaking, it is roughly the same cost as 100% cotton batting.

Polyester
Polyester is the most popular and widely available synthetic batting on the market. It generally is a high loft batt, but several different lofts are available. It quilts nicely, especially for hand quilting, but it can't handle heavy machine quilting like natural fibers can.  It's not a heavy batting, so that's a plus, but on the flip side of that coin, Polyester batts are subject to bearding because they aren't fused or needle punched as thoroughly. Unlike cotton, it is fully machine washable and dryer safe, won't retain mildewy smells and since it's synthetic it'll go back into shape after washing (no wrinkling around the quilting stitches). Polyester is definitely the way to go if you suffer from any kind of fiber allergies, because it is hypoallergenic by nature. However, it is a petroleum based material, so it isn't a renewable resource and it's not as environmentally friendly as other battings, if that is a concern of yours, then Polyester batting might not be for you. Of all the battings, Polyester is the least expensive option.

Wool
I have to say, wool is my batting of choice. It is generally a mid-loft, though thin wool batts are easily available. It natually regulates body temperature because it breathes and insulates at the same time, ensuring that you're not too hot or too cold. A neat thing about wool is that it can absorb 1/3 of its weight in water without feeling damp, so it'll still keep you warm even if it gets wet. Plus, wool quilts by both hand or machine very smoothly and really accentuates the stitches well. The downside to wool is that is not dryer safe because it can felt and get ruined by the heat of the dryer - air dry is the way to go. Moths also love wool batted quilts, just like they do wool sweaters, so it is important to keep an eye out for moth damage if you are storing the quilt. On the other hand, wool is naturally flame resistant so it is a good option for baby and children's quilts. However, if you're a fiber allergy sufferer, wool is not the fiber for you as it is the most common fiber that people are allergic to (it's the naturally occuring oil in the wool that is generally the culprit) and it has a tendency to beard if it's a lower quality wool batt. It is on the upper end of cost of the battings - less expensive than silk but more spendy than cotton or Polyester.

Alpaca
Alpaca batting is a type of wool batting. It is lightweight and very warm and breathable like wool, but it has a reduced allergy risk because it isn't oily the way sheep's wool is. It is usally blended with other natural fibers, and it is a needle-punched style batting. It does have the pitfall of felting and bunching in the dryer, and it is also susceptible to moth damage. It is the most expensive of the battings available simply because it is a specialty batting.

Bamboo
Bamboo is a truly wonderful, low loft batting. Bamboo is a fast growing plant, so it is a sustainable resource. It isn't as warm as wool, but it breathes like cotton and is perfect for summer quilts and throws. It is naturally hypoallergenic and antibacterial, so it's a good bet if you're an allergy sufferer. It doesn't beard because it a pretty flat, smooth batting. It is needle punched, so it doesn't have any bonding agents, but it makes it harder to hand quilt because it's fairly dense for being thinner. Bamboo tends to be on the expensive side of the spectrum, more comparable to wool, and it is more difficult to find than cotton is.

Silk
Silk batting is used less for quilts and more for quilted garments. It drapes the best out of all the battings, and it is incredibly warm for its thinness. It doesn't cling well to fabric, so machine quilting can be tricky as the fabric may slide over it.

Choosing the "Right" Batting for Your Quilt
The truth is there is no "right" choice, other than buying quality batting that won't clump or beard. Otherwise, it's all about the effect you want, the feel you want and what you enjoy working with. for myself, I stick with wool, cotton and bamboo....cotton and bamboo for tablerunners, wool for wall hangings and throws, and cotton for bedquilts. But here are a few guidelines to help you if you don't all ready have a batting in mind:

Hand Quilting - Wool, Polyester quilt the smoothest
Machine Quilting - Cotton, Wool, Alpaca, Cotton-Poly, Bamboo and Silk show off machine quilting well.

What size is your quilt? Low loft battings are perfect for tablerunners. Higherloft battings are great for wallhangings, because the thicker the batting, the straighter the piece will hang.

When will you use your quilt? Lower loft and breathable battings are best for summertime or warm climates - think cotton, bamboo, cotton-poly batts. Higher loft, less breathable battings are more suitable for cold weather quilts or cooler climates - think Polyester, wool or alpaca.

* Consider your budget and cost of batting. Plan to spend between $20-$40 on batting.

* Always follow the directions on your package of batting. It will let you know whether it can be used straight out of the package, how heavy or loose the quilting can be, the washing instructions and the fiber content.

Trial and error plays a big role in finding the right batting for you. I hope these tips and guidelines help you on your search!

Additional Information and Sources
Day Style Designs
Quilt University
Christine Mann's Batting Tips
As always, Google searches are great things!

What a weekend. Thank God it's Tippy Tuesday!

Well that had to be one of the top 5 worst weekends ever. for those that know all ready, Mom is doing fine now and she's moving forward with cardiologists to determine what needs to be done, if anything. For those that don't, Mom had a medical emergency on Thursday and is now doing fine, but wont be in the store much the next few weeks. Until then, y'all are stuck with Debi and I! :-)

Now, on to cheerier things...it's Tippy Tuesday!

* We all know what a hassle bias binding can be, so whenever you've got enough extra that you could use for another quilt, wrap it gently around a toilet paper tube. Be careful not to stretch it. But that way, it's flat so no need to iron it, gently wrapped so it won't get stretched badly or caught on anything, and it's easy to find and to store.

* If you need a little bit of stabilizer, but don't have any on hand....head to the laundry room and use a USED dryer sheet instead! The fabric softener has all ready dried away, so the sheet is thinner, easier to take out and won't leave any residue on your fabric.

* Personally, I'm not a pre-washer of my fabric simply because I prefer the look of the quilt after it gets quilted, then washed and dried, but this is a great tip anyway and has saved my bacon more than once. Shout Color Catchers are AWESOME. When you wash your fabric/quilt for the first time, dye may come out of your fabric especially if the fabric is a lower quality (think Wal-Mart, JoAnn's), and that dye run-off is just about guaranteed to ruin your fabric and anything else you wash with it. toss in a Color Catcher or two and voila! The dye has run off, but nothing gets stained.

* Orphan/extra blocks make for cute pillows! Add fabric to attain the desired size, choose a back and there you have it!

* Just like with medical sharps, thought for different reasons, used needles, rotary blades and pins can be dangerous to just throw away on their own. For pins and needles, use an old, empty medicine bottle. punch a hole in the lid large enough to fit the pin heads through, and super glue the lid to the bottle. Pins and needles aren't too likely to spill out if dropped, and curious kids won't be able to open the bottle. As for rotary blades, keep an old rotary blade case and mark an "X" or "OLD" on it in permanent marker. That way, the old blades are still contained, and you know that case is not full of new blades.

* Save leftover batting that is at least 9.5" x 9.5" because it can still be used for potholders! You will still want the thermal material in there too, so you don't burn yourself while using them, but that batting helps insulate further.

It's "Tippy Tuesday!"

So I've decided that this blog filled with only my projects can get boring and monotonous (I'm sure some of you out there will scream if you have to see one more BooVille photo!) so I'm going to start doing a few episodic (weekly) posts and hopefully it'll jazz this up some and stay around! So...let's start with some tips to make your quilting life easier with Tippy Tuesday!


*Not all of us are lucky enough to have the space for a pre-fab Design Wall. If you have limited space, a large piece of white cotton batting/white flannel is a great substitute! Hang it up  or drape it where you need it while you're sewing, then fold it up (even with your blocks still on it, they'll stay put!) and put it away when you're done.


*I'm a bad quilt girl and I don't pin my binding while I'm hand stitching it on. If you too hate pinning, a great alternative is to your the snap hair clips (you know, the ones you bend and they snap open) instead. They keep your binding in place and you don't have to watch where you stitch (or sit!)


*If you're looking for use applique ideas but don't want to draw them out yourself, check out your local scrapbooking or craft store. They have lots of stencils, punches and die cuts that might be just the design you're looking for.


*Do you like the idea of saving scraps, but then don't know what to do with them after the fact? Try cutting them into manageable sizes that you know you'll use down the road. For example, if you have enough cut some 2" strips, 2"-3"-4" blocks, half square triangles, whatever you think you'd use. whatever's left you can keep in a box for future applique projects - as we all know those applique projects can demand some tiny pieces, and a scrap earmarked for that may be just the thing you need.


*If a piece of fabric is the right color but a few shades too dark, there's nothing wrong with using the "wrong" side! If you have a good quality fabric, the print will still be visible, bit it'll be a paler version of the "right" side of your piece. No one will know the difference unless you tell them!


*"To help determine the value of a color (light, medium or dark) look at the fabric through a clear piece of red glass or plastic. The red neutralizes the color allowing you to see only 'black and white'" This is a good one! I don't know where to find a plain piece of red plastic, but my best guess is that an art supply store is a great place to start looking.


*Quilters are extremely skilled at dropping pins on the floor and forgetting about them, especially if it' s a carpetted floor. At the hardware store you can find telescoping magnets, and they are fantastic for pullin gpins off the floor/carpet without you having to spend a while bent over picking them out by hand.


*If you're travelling and can't have little embroidery scissors with you (yeah, I'm looking at you, TSA), wind a bobbin with the thread you are working with and put it inside a dental floss container (they're very simple to take apart and the center spindle is the right size for MOST bobbins). The cutter in the floss container is sharp enough to cut through most threads without fraying them.


*If you're having difficulty threading your needle try one of these methods if a needle threader isn't available: If you're having trouble seeing the eye, thread it with a white piece of paper behind it - that makes the eye much more visible. If the eye of your needle is large enough, you can use a thin piece of paper folded in half the same as a traditional needle threader. If your issue is the thread catching on the needle and not making it through, cut the tip of your thread to a beveled edge and try that - that will get rid of any little fibers that might be snagging. Also, every needle nowadays is stamped out of a larger piece of steel when it's made, so every needle has a front and back side; usually the front is easier to thread than the back, so just flip your needle over and try threading it again.


*Napkin holders are a great way to store the rulers that you use the most by your cutting mat, if you don't want to poke holes in your walls to hang each one




Well, that's it for this week's Tippy Tuesday. check back next week for more, or if you have any tips you'd like to share (hint hint hint) comment on this post and I'll post them for everyone next week!