Offset Triangles: A Hate-Hate Relationship

Whelp, I resurrected a creature from the deep...my Kaye England Block of the Month from two-ish years ago.  Some folks remember this quilt as the one I changed all the colors on in class, and got super behind on and they wanted to see it done and I wanted to see it burn.  Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the project and the colors but uh...let's just say my patience with getting stymied by techniques requiring superhuman precision is embarrassingly short.  Hey, at least I admit it, right?  That has to count for something.

So. Offset triangles are thee devil. Mom is so very wrong...my seventh level of hell isn't chickens (long story), it's a project with offset triangles in it.  Think I'm kidding?  Check out this entry from 2011.  This time, ironing isn't the problem...yes, this rookie cookie finally broke the press-not-iron code.  It's the quarter inch on the ends.  Somewhere, I am massively screwing it up despite my diligent (I swear!) measuring, pinning, careful stitching and pressing-not-ironing...because it's looking like a damn staircase. 

Of course, when I looked online for a half decent tutorial on prepping and sewing offset triangles, I got directed to engineering websites and sewing equilateral triangles.  Well, both of those help me exactly not at all, because I am sewing the squatty isosceles variety and as my brain is pretty busted in the math department, I can't seem to extrapolate the procedure.  Someone needs to get on writing up a tute for that...I'd do it but I am the absolutely wrong person for the job.

This looks like a quilt for another day.  Maybe it'll be done by the time I'm 30 (fat chance, I'm staring down the wrong side of my 20s)

Thursday, it's Technical: Troubleshooting your Misbehaving Sewing Machine

More often than I'm willing to admit, I find myself being too hard on my little machine, cussing at it whenever it doesn't do what I want. Let's face it, to a certain degree, every quilter has had that moment of rage when their machine is messing up and they can't figure out why! Lots of times people are very quick to just take it in to be fixed instead of doing a little troubleshooting on their own, which may fix the problem. It's intimidating, especially if you're unfamiliar with your machine, to open it up and figure out what's up. Even those manuals can be a bit vague when you're frustrated and trying to figure out the random "who-the-heck-knows" fit your machine has decided to throw.

General Trouble Shooting
Here are few general steps to go through before doing anything more intricate or taking your machine to a pro.
Rethread. Yes, sometimes it's as simple as rethreading your machine and that's it. Your thread may have slipped out of the tension disks, broke, got caught somewhere or something like that, that you wouldn't necessarily see right away. Rethread your top thread and your bobbin thread. Speaking of bobbins...

Rewind Your Bobbin. Sometimes, if a bobbin isn't wound properly, it causes weird little issues. Be sure to wind your bobbin as per your machine manual's instructions; some wind clockwise, and some counterclockwise, so be sure to be attentive to that. Also, use one continuous piece of thread to wind your bobbin, not several pieces of varying color and length. It seems like a great way to save and use "waste" thread, but in therms of your machine's function, it causes more problems than it solves. Use one piece wound off of one thread spool. And while you're down in the bobbin area...

Clean Your Bobbin Case Area. Your machine probably came with a little, stiff bristled brush for this, but I have found that canned air (yes, canned air like for keyboards) works the best. If you don't have canned air, try a soft paintbrush or makeup brush - their bristles are soft and flexible and get in the crannies better than the stiff plastic bristles of the standard issue machine brush. Dust and lint can really foul things up if a lot has accumulated, and every now and then a wayward thread gets caught in the bobbin case. Brush or blow out that bobbin case area. Carefully remove the throat plate if needed (you know, the metal piece surrounding the feed dogs) with the screwdriver included with yur machine, and clean down around the feed dogs too.

Change Your Needle. It could be that your needle is bent, dull or barbed and snagging on your fabric or thread. It's amazing how much a little needle can mess so much up! Or, you may not be using the right needle for the job; CLICK HERE to learn about the types of machine needles and which works best for the task at hand.

Problem Specific Troubleshooting
Here are a few common problems and how they can be fixed (in most cases)

Help! My bobbin won't go back in! It sounds silly, but is your needle down, or up? If it is down, no amount of trying to shove that thing in there is going to get it in because the needle is blocking where the bobbin goes. Using the handwheel, gently raise your needle and then try again. If that doesn't work, have a look inside. If you have just cleaned your machine, odds are something didn't get put back in properly. Look for loose pieces and put them in again. Your bobbin case should go in just fine.

Help! My bobbin thread is coming through my top thread! It's a tension issue (ha, I know, you can say that again). Your needle tension is too high, high enough that it is pulloing the bobbin thread too hard and that's why it's peeking up through your top thread. Take that puppy down a noth, I mean, half a number at once. If your tension is at 3 when this occurs, drop it to 2.5 and try again.

Help! My top thread is poking through my bobbin thread! Another tension issue (hiii-yo!). Your needle tension is too loose. Tighten it by half a measure. If your tension is at 3 when this occurs, to up to 3.5 and see what happens.

Help! My fabric is puckering when I straight stitch, and I don't want it to! Yep, another tension issue. Look, tension's a bitch, it just is and it get knocked off pretty easy. In this case, both needle and bobbin tensions are too tight. Loosen your needle tension by .5 a measure. Get to your bobbin and take out the bobbin case. See that screw on the side? It needs to be loosened, but only a little!  A little goes a long way with that thing, so try only a quarter turn at a time. Put your bobbin back in and try again. Adjust as needed until it works.

Help! There is smoke coming out of my machine, what did I do?! Well my dear, you might have just burned out your motor. There is nothing you can do to fix this on your own - take it to a pro. They might be able to fix it, but like damage to car consider whether the cost of the repair is greater than the worth of the machine. That might have been that machine's death throes and it might be time for a new one.

Help! My machine is skipping stitches! Unless you haven't had your machine cleaned in ages, this is a needle problem. Use the right needle for the job and change to a new one. It might be bent or barbed.

Help! My bobbin thread is a tangled, loopy nightmare when I sew! First, rethread your bobbin and top thread with the presser foot UP. If it's down, you're in tension mode and that can make the thread sit funny. try sewing again. If that doesn't work, change your needle. If that doesn't work, test with a different bobbin. It could be that your bobbin isn't wound well. If it's not, rewind another bobbin and get to work!

Help! My top thread keeps breaking! Make sure you are using a quality thread. Lower quality threads break much easier. If you're using a metallic, change to a metallic needle and take it slower - metallic threads break much easier than cottons or polyesters. To learn more about thread types and when to use them, CLICK HERE. More than likely it's a needle issue or a threading issue. rethread your machine first and try again. Usually that fixes the problem. If not, change your needle.

Machine Problem Prevention
- Keep your machine clean; get the dust and lint out of there after every project, or midway during a project if you are using fabrics prone to linting.

- Don't stitch using the handwheel. That knocks your machine out of tension and can mess up the timing.

- Unplug your machine and keep it away from little fingers. Children may play with it when you're not around, and when you go to use it everything is off. Most kids know that your sewing machine isn't a toy for them, but all those buttons and knobs and that pedal are awful enticing for little ones.

- Take your machine in for regular cleanings and maitenence by a professional. It's work the money to keep your machine in top shape!

- Be careful not to drop your machine, and if it is on the ground, take care not to knock it or kick it.


As always, DON'T FORCEyour machine if it's stuck and always be gentle when troubleshooting. These tips are handy for sure, but if you're ever in doubt, TAKE YOUR MACHINE TO A PRO. It's always worth it.

Sources and Additional Information
What the Craft
Sewing at About.com

Filomena!!! Los Liiiiiiinks!

As for that title, I got it from the video above. I don't use Bing but the commercial is funny. Actually in my head I call the Lauren's Links portion of the newsletter "Los Liiiiiinks!!!" in that guy's voice. It's funny, I assure you.

Anyway...on to the link.

This is a really good article (CLICK HERE) If you have ever sat there looking at your finished quilt underwhelmed (I know I have) then this is a really good article to read. Dena Crain is a teacher in Kenya and quilter, and her blog has this article on it about things to consider when you're not thrilled with your quilt. It talks about everything from color choice, to thread tension on your machine. I found it very helpful!

Why yes, I DO know better. But that, my friends, doesn't mean diddly.

So yeah. My machine hates me. Which, by "my machine hates me," I actually mean I totally screwed it up myself. User error.

I know better than to sew over pins, which is why I always take them out before my needle goes over them. who am I kidding? I don't. I leave them there...like most imperfect quilters (is there such a thing as a perfect quilter? Ooh, quilting existentialism). But in the back of my brain I know that there is a risk of breaking a needle or the pin if the the needle actually hitis the pin. apparently it's way back there in the back.

To the untrained eye, it looks like I'm being a diligent machine owner and cleaning my machine after using it. Yeah, that beast gets duuuuusty. I wish I could say that this is why I have got everything dismantled. Alas, I ran over a pin and the unexpected happened....

See that? Yeah, the pin didn't break like one would expect it to, and nor did the needle....The damn thing sucked itself into the feed dogs and got itself crimped and stuck therein. You should have heard the noise. It was ugly. I think my roomate dang near jumped out of her skin, because there she was minding her own business, watching Futurama, and KA-CHING-CRUNCH - pin, meet feed dogs, they want to devour you.

So what is the moral of this story? You probably shouldn't run over your pins. Will I run over my pins again/still? You betcha. But I will change my needle and watch things a little more closely.

Somewhere out in the wild and weird world of the interwebs, there's a Quilt Police Officer taking down my number so they can smack me upside the head with a ruler. 

Quilting Basics 101: So many needles, so many types and sizes...so what?

Anyone who has ever had the joy of sewing away on a their sewing machine knows that when things are good, they're great and when they're not, well, things are downright weird. I have 2 machines with 2 VERY different temperaments, and when they misbehave I always seem to sit there scratching my head (and definitely not swearing at it...nope...not I...) and wondering where it all went wrong.

So this time I want to take a minute to focus on our machines - what they need, what they want, and what to do when they decide to take their ball and go home. There are LOTS of blogs out there with varying opinions and information on what I'm going to talk about, so I recommend doing a search and reading up on their information too. I'll post some links along the way (they'll be the ones in green and underlined), and they are the places where I supplemented my information. I think for the first time, I'll focus on choosing a needle...because even though it sounds like a "so what?" kind of thing, it really is relatively important!


Yes, the Needle You Use Matters!
Up until recently, I thought that a needle was a needle was a needle was a needle. I didn't get why they would need to sell anything but Sharps - I mean, excluding the Twin Needles, they all look dang near the same, so big whoop, right? Wrong! The needle you choose does matter. Using the incorrect needle for the job can mar your fabric, snap your thread, cause tension issues and wreak general havoc. Okay, so that last part is an exaggeration, but it sounds good, doesn't it?

Okay, so first things first. When I started buying needles I had no flippin' clue what the numbers on the front of the needle pack meant. 80? 90? 12? 14? What the heck is that even supposed to mean? Well, like the gauge on wire, that number refers to the size of the needle (thickness). Normally the pack will say something like 90/14 or 80/12 (okay, so I may have those numbers reversed...but for the sake of example...). All that is, is the Metric measurement/the King's System measurement (for my U.S. readers, the King's System is what we use). It doesn't matter which you go by, just so long as you understand what it means. For my overseas readers, the 70/80/90 is for you; for my U.S. readers, the 10/12/14 is for you. It's also worthwhile to know that the smaller your needle size, the smaller the eye of the needle will be. That's something to keep it mind.

So why the different sizes? It all has to do with the task at hand. Are you planning to stitch on something sheer, or something heavy like canvas? The thicker your fabric, the thicker your needle will want to be. Large needles will mar fine fabrics, and small needles may burr or break in thick fabrics. Sew, Mama, Sew laid it out the best...I can't say it better, so I won't!:

• Delicate Fabrics: When sewing with fabrics such as silk, chiffon, voile, fine lace or organza a fine “size 9″ needle would usually be the best choice.
• Lightweight Fabrics: When using lighter weight fabrics such as synthetic sheers, batiste, taffeta or velvet would a “size 11″ needle would be the normal choice.
• Medium Weight Fabrics: When sewing with slightly heavier weight fabrics such as gingham, poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool crepe, flannel, knits, jersey, wool, wool suiting, or stretch fabrics a “size 14″ needle is generally best.
• Medium-Heavy Fabrics: Sewing with fabrics such as gabardine, heavy suiting or tweed would require a “size 16″ needle.
• Heavy Fabrics: When using heavy weight fabrics such as denim, ticking, upholstery or canvas a “size 18″ needle is the most suitable.

 So you know the needle size you need, but what kind of needle should you use? There are so many brands and types out there, so how do you know? Well, everyone has the brand they prefer, which they figure out through trial and error. I'm a Schmetz girl, and I absolutely do not like Klasse needles. But that's just me! You either all ready have your brand of choice, or you'll find it so no worries there. As far as type goes...there are several to choose from and each are suited for certain tasks. These are the most common, though there are many more:

• Sharps: These are my default needles. I use them for most things, but really they are intended for tightly woven fabrics (like Batiks) or for fabrics that are finer in texture, like silks. The needle itself is tapered, thinner and very, very sharp so it doesn't disrupt the fabric quite as much.
• Universal: They are what they sound like; they're good for just about everything. While not as sharp as sharps (these have an ever-so-slightly rounded point), they still are very sharp and get the job done on most fabrics. When you buy a machine, this is usually the type of needle it comes with.
• Quilting/Betweens: These are meant for quilting your quilt sandwich. They are designed with the length of the needle being very strong to withstand having to pierce several layers of fabric and batting. Even in the larger thicknesses, the eye of the needle is fairly small.
• Metallic: If you are using metallic or monofilament thread, these needles are Godsends! If you try and use these threads in other needles, they have a tendency to strip and break, which, spekaing for myself, sends me into a tailspin of frustration and...not...swearing at my project. The eye of the needle is a little smoother and has a very thin coating of Teflon (or something very similar to it) to help ease the thread through with minimal damage to it as it pierces the fabric.
• Ballpoint: These needles are meant specially for knits and wovens. They do not work well with quilting cottons, fine fabrics or heavy weight fabrics. These needles have rounded points rather than sharp ones (though I still wouldn't want to step or sit on one...youch!), which means they push between the fibers rather than piercing through. It's a needle you'd use more often in garment sewing and general sewing than in quilting, though you may in quiling on occasion.
• Jeans/Denim: This needle is a real workhorse. It is not suitable for most quilting cottons or finer fabrics; it is definitely meant for denim and canvas weight fabrics. It is very sharp and the eye is slender, to help facilitate its movement through thick fabric. It is also more resistant to breakage than most other needles.
• Embroidery: The eyes of these needle are larger to accomodate heavier weight threads and thicker, more decorative threads. The eye is longer and the groove along the length of the needle is deeper to help protect the thicker threads. If you have an embroidery unit on your machine,or you do art quilting, this is a needle you will use fairly regularly. In general sewing and quilting, you may not use it quite as much.

As far as the life of a needle goes, really (if you're the perfect quilter in an ideal world...or just very attentive to these things) you should changeit every project to be sure that you have a fresh, sharp needle. If your needle is dull or has a burr (which can happen from it nicking the bobbin case...or more likely, from running over that pin you "never ever ever" sew over), it can cause issues ranging from breaking your thread, marring your fabric or throwing off your machine's tension. If you hear clicking or popping while you sew, if your thread keeps breaking, if your machine is skipping stitches or if your fabric is tearing where the needles enters, change your needle - it is either too dull or it has a burr in it.

If you needle is dull, burred, or if you run over a pin (which I know none of us would ever do *cough*) your needle can break. If your needle breaks, usually the thread will keep the 2 broken halves together and it's an easy fix. But sometimes, and this really bites, but the point will fly off and hit you (my insolent broken needle hit me in the forehead once, no joke) which could be bad, or it can get stuck down in the bobbin area of the machine and really screw things up. I haven't had the latter happen to me *knock on wood* but I do know that it can happen.

Anyway, if you've lasted this long, I hope this was helpful and informative!

Sources: Sew, Mama Sew and Quilt Bug