Thursday, it's Technical: Choosing the Right Thread for the Job

Thread is one of those things that, unless we're choosing it for the top quilting, we don't think about much. We have "our thread" and we like what we like and that's what we use. Me? I tend to stay with Guterman 50wt. black in the top thread, and that, or Superior Bottom Line gray in the bobbin. I vary very little from that, but I'm starting to find that yeah, I really do need to change it up sometimes depending on what I'm doing. But honestly, I didn't know how I should be changing my threads and why, so I did a little bit of research about the different threads, when and why they're used. I hope you find this as helpful as I did!

Thread Basics 101
Thread Weights
Yes, just like wire, thread comes in "gauges," referred to as the thread's weight. The higher the number, the finer the thread. A good middle weight thread, and most commonly available is 50wt. and it will get the job done with most moderate thickness fabrics, like flannel, cotton, batik. 60wt. is more intended for bobbin thread, or sewing with lightweight fabrics like chiffon. A 40wt. thread is best served for things like cordouroy, canvas, and denim; its thickness will prevent it from breaking as it is pushed through the heavier fabrics.

Cotton
Cotton really is your go-to thread. It works well for most projects, is quite durable and comes in every color under the sun and is reasonably priced. Cotton thread is "Mercerized" meaning it has undergone a process to give it smoothness and a bit of luster and it accepts dye well. It is always wise to use thread to match your fabric, since with lower quality threads (as with fabric) the dye can bleed. It is good to use when you're sewing cottons, rayons or linens. Cotton has very little give to it, so if you're sewing knits or anything in which you need to retain stretch in the seams, cotton is not the right thread for the job.

Polyester
Polyester is widely available, and the subject of hot thread debate (who knew?). There are some who swear by polyester and who will use nothing but, and there are others who completely refuse to use the stuff. I suppose it comes down to personal preference, as with most things, but consider your purpose. Polyester doesn't shrink or fade, because it is a synthetic fiber, and as such it is intended for use with other synthetic fibers. It works well with knits, polyester, and cotton.

Rayon
It is lustrous and a great thread for decorative stitching. It is a synthetic fiber with little give, so it's not suited to anything with stretch (unless in the capacity of embellishment, not seams). It does have a tendency to slip out of machine needles and break, so it can be a little trying in the patience department, but the effect is worth it. It can be used in seams in a pinch, but it's not really the best choice for the piecing work.

Nylon/Monofilament
Nylon thread is meant for synthetics when used in a seam. It is mainly used for top quilting, as it is "invisible" and very forgiving as it embeds in the fabric well to hide stitching errors. While after completion it is very strong, it can snap when sewn in too fast. Some nylons are iron safe, and some are not - it depends greatly on quality and whether they are coated with another heat-safe substance or not. Use a Metallics needle for best results in a sewing machine.

Silk
Silk is perfect for hand applique. It hides well in the fabric and glides through the pieces like a dream. It is on the spendy side, though. It is best suited for "luxury" fabrics because of its cost and its natural sheen. It is also very strong, but you will also find a more limited array of color. It also works well for garments, because it can easily be hidden and it isn't bulky.

Wool
Wool thread is meant less for seams and more for embellsihment and hand applique. The common wool traits are applicable here - it is thicker, coarser and more expensive than your usualy cotton or polyester. You can use them in a machine, but you will need a larger eye for your needle and they fuzz like crazy, so clean out your bobbin case regularly.

Metallics
These are meant for embellishment and top quilting only. It snaps easily, making it a beast to work with, so this is not at all suitable for seamwork - besisde, you won't see that gorgeous shine in a seam anyway. These have a very striking effect on a quilt or garment, but can over power too. To cut down on snapping, use a Metallic needle in your machine for best results.

Considerations
As with all choices in material you can make, consider your purpose. Choose a thread that is best suited to what you're doing and how your item will be treated. Take into consideration the type of fabric you're sewing and its strength versus the strength of the thread - if they are too different in durability, the thread can wear through the fabric over time and create holes, or the wear on the fabric will snap the thread. Needle Pointers suggests that you choose a thread of the same matrial as your fabnric, and the same size as the weave of the fabric to ensure equality in strength. They also suggest, if equality isn't possible, to choose a thread weaker than the fabric - a broken thread is easier to repair than shredded fabric. Always test for colorfastness and be aware of how it will shrink in the wash versus your fabric. If it shrinks more, then it will create puckers which gives a quilt a more antique look. If it shrinks less, the puckers aren't created. Do you want your stitches to show or not? If you do, use a contrasting color or a thread with a different luster than your fabric; if not, choose the same color or luster as your fabric.

Remember, just like fabric, you get what you pay for. While 5 for $1 thread is a bargain for your wallet, it is  as cheap as it is inexpensive, and unless it is a major brand on markdown, it will tend to snap, stretch, shrink, fray, fade, and ravel more than the higher quality (and higher cost) threads which will in turn affect the quality of your work. There are many high quality threads out there, and you have to try several to find what you like and what your machine likes best. I prefer Guetermann or Presencia for my top thread, and Superior Bottom Line for my bobbin thread for piecing and applique (we have these at the shop). I'm really partial to Superior Monofilament and Sulky Holoshimmer for decorative quilting. You'll have to find your thread brand of choice for yourself and change up your fiber content for the project at hand.
Sources and More Information
All Free Crafts' article on Thread
Textiles in Depth
eHow
Needle Pointers - explore this one...there is A LOT of information.
Best Sewing Machines' Thread Tips

Tippy Tuesday, only on Wednesday

Well, life has been crazy lately (and not in a fun "Barrel of Monkeys" way). Too much time has been spent in hospitals and at doctors appointments, and I've been triple-timing it at work so my time for anything more than work and sleep has been extremely limited. But we did finally get some good news - Mom doesn't have a heart problem. Her heart attack and related issues were not caused by a faulty ticker, but because of a thyroid disorder called Graves Disease. Don't worry, it's named after the doctor who discovered it in the 1920s, not after where you end up if you have it. Luckily it is easily treated and hopefully life will return back to normal for all of us soon. Needless to say, everyone in the family and at the shop are so very relieved it isn't anything more serious.

So, now to the tips. Since I haven't had a whole lot of time, I haven't gathered that many so I'm gathering while I'm writing. I haven't been able to test any of these out so they mayt or may not work for you but hey, it never hurts to give it a go on scrap or test fabrics/notions. Here we go!:

* Flannel works as a good batting subsitute if the quilt you're making is thick enough on its own (a Minkee quilt, for example) or if you want to keep your quilt really lightweight. Back in the day flannel was often used as "batting" because batting of a good quality wasn't always available where flannel was easier to obtain.

* Dishwasher utensil baskets make a great notion storage device - they are narrow and compact so they stay out of the way on your table, and they are easily hung up on the wall to be out of the way entirely. So if you're getting rid of a dishwasher, save that basket! Or, you can purchase one relatively inexpensively.

* If you're binding a quilt, and it's getting too warm to do while it's draped over you, move your ironing board to where you're seated and lower it to just above your lap. Drape the quilt over it and continue binding. The ironing board prevents the quilt from overheating you, and there is a nice draft between the quilt, board and you.

* While you're working on a project requiring several bobbins, stick a Q-Tip in the spool of thread, and then the bobbin through the Q-Tip. If you run out of thread, you will quickly know whch thread you used for that bobbin in case you forget.

* Keep inexpensive makeup brushes (eyeshadow and eyeliner brushes work best) as well as the fuzzy dental picks in your sewing kit. They are great for cleaning your machine when needed, and get into the nooks and crannies better than the brush your machine came with.

* If you have a cat or small dog, fabric scraps (apparently) make good chew toys. Tie a knot in it and let 'em at it. My chihuahuas can hardly wait until I start having scraps falling. I give them the big ones I know I won't use later, with the knot tied in it and believe it or not it gives them literally hours of entertainment gnawing on that thing. Sometimes they'll steal away the smaller ones and chew it to bits after it falls from my cutting board and I don't always catch it until it's been in their slobbery little mouths for a bit. They just shred them up, so it's not really a choking hazard, but it could be - stick with larger pieces.

* Clean your blades, both rotary and scissors, with rubbing alcohol to keep them gunk free and cutting smoothly.

* If you are thrying to thread a clear monofilament through a needle and not having much luck, there are two things you can do: first, thread it against a dark fabric since that makes the thread easier to see. or color the very tip of the thread with permanent marker so you can see it to thread it and then snip it off.

* Making cloth napkins and coasters are a great way to burn through your scraps/stash and they make nice gifts for people.

* Speaking of cloth napkins, if you have a theme decor in your dining room, buy cloth napkins that complement your color scheme or dishes and use them in a table runner. While the fabric quality may not be the same as quilting fabric, it's an inexpensive way to tie your room together. Plus, it's not a piece to be washed regularly so using the napkins is just fine. A heavier weight napkin tends to work a little better than the lightweight cotton ones.

* The edge of the selvedge tells you more than just the line and manufacturer. Those colored dots tell you how many different dye screens were used to make that whole fabric. As such, those are the individual colors that will match and blend nicely with that piece of fabric. So if you're stuck on the color choices with your go-withs, that selvedge is a great place to start looking!

Some Finished Projects, and Tippy Tuesday!

Well, it's been QUITE the weekend. I can honestly say I pushed myself to the point of being so physically and mentally tired I couldn't think of the word for guacamole (and I love guacamole). We changed the store up...just about the only things that didn't move are Color Wall and Clearance. It looks pretty dang good if I do say so myself, but it was a LOT of hard work. Mom is notorious for pushing herself too hard, and so considering a week off of her heart attack she was wanting to move things, I made sure I stayed late and came in early so I got the heavy lifting done before she got there so she wouldn't try to do it herself. Who'd have thought that there would be heavy lifting in a quilt store? Well, there is...those bolts are heavy if you move more than 2 at a time (which I did). But it wasn't all me thank goodness, we got my folks, my aunt, brother and my roomate to help get things done and after 3 days of moving I swear I couldn't have done it without their help! The busted their rear ends too and for that I thank 'em. So y'all will have to come in and see!

Besides doing the big fall floorset, I got a couple quilts done too. The first is a quilt from posts past. I finally got the borders on and it looks fabulous! It was really hard for me to do a random and scrappy style quilt, especially one that is really heavy on pattern, so I'm happy with the results. We were going to have kits for this, but when I discovered how the borders had to be cut to look right, it just wasn't going to happen. So, just about all of the fabric is still available, but no kits.

The whole kit 'n caboodle. Scrappy, yes?

A detail shot. I am in LOVE with that border print. It's a strong pastel, which, any pastel isn't really my thing, but this one is really cute. And it's a sewing theme too so it's gotta be good ;-) In case you're wondering, the beige in the print is actually a sewing pattern for clothes, the kind that comes printed on the it's-so-thin-you-look-at-it-sideways-and-it-tears tissue paper. It's a little hard to see in this picture.

A detail of the ceter of the quilt. And my feet.

 The other quilt is a quilt from a postcard pattern. They're $2 apiece and all of the quilts are simple and of various sizes, from wall hangings to very large throws (this one is I think about 74" square). I started this in January and obviously got very, very sidetracked. But it turned out nicely, and it's definitely in my favorite colorway.

Simple, but it's one of those quilts where color and value placement make a world of difference. This quilt could look completely different by turning the blocks different ways and placing the color differently.

A little more detail of the fabric, sans feet. I am also in LOVE with that border. this picture doesn't do it justice, the color is so vibrant.

So enough of my quilts, now on to this week's tips!:

* If a spool of thread you're using doesn't have a notch or anything to keep your thread from unwinding when it's not in use, cut a thin strip of Saran Wrap or Press & Seal wrap and rap it around your loose end. It prevents the thread from unspooling, it's easy to remove when you need the thread, and it doesn't damage the thread either.

* To keep scissors or thread clippers handy near your sewing machine without having to watch that they don't fall of the table while you're sewing/cutting, a suction cup hook from the Dollar Store attaches/removes easily from the side of your machine and keeps what you need easily accessible and out of the way.

* A Boning gun (the gun that attaches the plastic "bone" to both a garment and the price tag) comes in handy when you want to keep blocks or like scraps together for use later. The hole it creates is no larger than a T-Pin and your pieces won't come separated from each other until you decide to use them.

* If you're quilting a large quilt and find yourself struggling with the weight of the quilt forcing it to fall off your table while you're quilting, the following 2 tips help combat that weight: 1) if you're able to, put your sewing table in a corner while you quilt - that elimiates 2 sides from which your quilt can fall over and pull while you're sewing, and 2) if you can't put your table in a corner, take the loose end of your quilt and drape it over your shoulder and chest - it won't fall and your arms are still free to quilt the way you need to.

* For smaller quilts, use a spray adhesive on the back of your backing and of your quilt to baste it to your batting. it saves you time on pinning, doesn't come undone, and doesn't gunk up your needle or machine. Just be sure not to spray the adhesive on to your batting - it will simply absorb the adhesive and your fabric won't adhere.

* If you are quilting a quilt yourself and don't want to use a stipple and youdon't have access to a computerized longarm for designs, your local craft store has a large selection of stencils that can be used as quilting patterns. Use a chalk pouncer or a water soluable pen to trace your design, and stitch on your marks.

* If you don't have a hard floor, go to your office supply store and buy a hard mat that is for underneath a rolling chair, and put it under your sewing chair byu your machine. Threads and scraps fall to the floor all the time, and this hard surface is a snap to clean - just sweep your threads/scraps up and you're good as new. A magnet will help pick those pins that fall on there quickly and poke-free too!

* Most stores when you're buying clothes will either give you the hanger, or ask you if you want to keep it; if it's a clip style pnats hanger, say yes please! Those clip hangers are great for storing finished, unquilted quilt tops up and away from anything that could damage themor cause your fabric to ravel. They are also great for storing odd pieces of batting, quilting stencils, large pattern pieces, large pieces of template plastic or odd sized cutting mats.

* To keep your cutting accurate, use the right ruler for the job and measure using your ruler, NOT your mat. Over time and wear, mats can groove and warp, making your cuts less accurate as time goes on. The hard acrylic rulers are made from does not warp with time and your cuts will always be accurate. It also enables you move where you cut, which causes less wear on your mat over time. This method works for cuts as larger as youer needed ruler allows, from strips of varying width up to 25" square.

* The rubber stops on knitting needles are great to use on your small sharp scissors. They prevent your points from getting dull from storage (other items may hit your scissors) and it protects both you and your projects from accidentally getting poked or cut.

It's "Tippy Tuesday!"

So I've decided that this blog filled with only my projects can get boring and monotonous (I'm sure some of you out there will scream if you have to see one more BooVille photo!) so I'm going to start doing a few episodic (weekly) posts and hopefully it'll jazz this up some and stay around! So...let's start with some tips to make your quilting life easier with Tippy Tuesday!


*Not all of us are lucky enough to have the space for a pre-fab Design Wall. If you have limited space, a large piece of white cotton batting/white flannel is a great substitute! Hang it up  or drape it where you need it while you're sewing, then fold it up (even with your blocks still on it, they'll stay put!) and put it away when you're done.


*I'm a bad quilt girl and I don't pin my binding while I'm hand stitching it on. If you too hate pinning, a great alternative is to your the snap hair clips (you know, the ones you bend and they snap open) instead. They keep your binding in place and you don't have to watch where you stitch (or sit!)


*If you're looking for use applique ideas but don't want to draw them out yourself, check out your local scrapbooking or craft store. They have lots of stencils, punches and die cuts that might be just the design you're looking for.


*Do you like the idea of saving scraps, but then don't know what to do with them after the fact? Try cutting them into manageable sizes that you know you'll use down the road. For example, if you have enough cut some 2" strips, 2"-3"-4" blocks, half square triangles, whatever you think you'd use. whatever's left you can keep in a box for future applique projects - as we all know those applique projects can demand some tiny pieces, and a scrap earmarked for that may be just the thing you need.


*If a piece of fabric is the right color but a few shades too dark, there's nothing wrong with using the "wrong" side! If you have a good quality fabric, the print will still be visible, bit it'll be a paler version of the "right" side of your piece. No one will know the difference unless you tell them!


*"To help determine the value of a color (light, medium or dark) look at the fabric through a clear piece of red glass or plastic. The red neutralizes the color allowing you to see only 'black and white'" This is a good one! I don't know where to find a plain piece of red plastic, but my best guess is that an art supply store is a great place to start looking.


*Quilters are extremely skilled at dropping pins on the floor and forgetting about them, especially if it' s a carpetted floor. At the hardware store you can find telescoping magnets, and they are fantastic for pullin gpins off the floor/carpet without you having to spend a while bent over picking them out by hand.


*If you're travelling and can't have little embroidery scissors with you (yeah, I'm looking at you, TSA), wind a bobbin with the thread you are working with and put it inside a dental floss container (they're very simple to take apart and the center spindle is the right size for MOST bobbins). The cutter in the floss container is sharp enough to cut through most threads without fraying them.


*If you're having difficulty threading your needle try one of these methods if a needle threader isn't available: If you're having trouble seeing the eye, thread it with a white piece of paper behind it - that makes the eye much more visible. If the eye of your needle is large enough, you can use a thin piece of paper folded in half the same as a traditional needle threader. If your issue is the thread catching on the needle and not making it through, cut the tip of your thread to a beveled edge and try that - that will get rid of any little fibers that might be snagging. Also, every needle nowadays is stamped out of a larger piece of steel when it's made, so every needle has a front and back side; usually the front is easier to thread than the back, so just flip your needle over and try threading it again.


*Napkin holders are a great way to store the rulers that you use the most by your cutting mat, if you don't want to poke holes in your walls to hang each one




Well, that's it for this week's Tippy Tuesday. check back next week for more, or if you have any tips you'd like to share (hint hint hint) comment on this post and I'll post them for everyone next week!